Saturday, July 31, 2010

Under Italian Sun

Our stay in Florence was fairly brief and our touring plans less ambitious. In the heat the list got even shorter. A dear friend and local guide gave us a short tour that included looking at a very large naked man. Matilde walked around David several times observing his nakedness. When we visited Piazzale Michelangelo the next day they did spot a replica of the very same naked man, so something had gone in!

We spent time with i nonni and enjoyed some delicious Tuscan food. We had originally hoped to visit Gregorio's aunt, a lovely lady and mother superior in a convent in Florence, but sadly she passed away just after we arrived in London. We all visited her grave, so there have been a lot of questions about death and Matilde is now counting the number of nuns she has seen on this trip.

The most exciting thing about being in Florence for the girls was that we were given two rooms in the hotel - and they were on their own without mummy and papa'. Oh the excitement of it all. They enjoyed unpacking and packing up their stuff all on their own. They even made their own beds in the morning (not something that always happens at home). And not to mention the baldachino above their beds.

From Florence we wended our way down into picturesque Tuscany where the air was fresher and the evening breeze was refreshing. We stayed in a delightful agriturismo just outside Pienza. The girls were able to cool off in the pool and we wandered the hilltowns close by in the evenings, taking a passeggiata with the locals prior to dinner. The highlight for Isabella was taking a cooking class with papa and several other guests and the owner of the agriturismo. They made a serious amount of local pasta, including pici and several different sauces, not to mention crostini toscani. At the end of the morning we sat down to a lovely lunch under the cool arches of their veranda looking out over the Tuscan countryside - it was picture perfect. The girls ate and then went and jumped in the pool with the teenage daughter while we lingered till late in the afternoon enjoying the food and their own wine.

And finally our road led us to Rome. We managed to catch up with a number of friends and family in and around the city.  Including 'i cugini', pictured here with the girls playing Italian card games. On the Sunday evening, when cars are allowed into the city we did a whistle stop tour; given the continuing heat and the girl's weariness for walking to see tourist sites it seemed the best option. We were able to tick off the most important sites of St Peter's and the Colosseum. Another morning was spent walking around seeing the Pantheon and Piazza Navona and of course picking up a gelato at Giolitti. Gregorio was very proud to show his girls around Rome - had we had more time or energy we would have seen more but we know we will be back. On our final night Gregorio and I enjoyed Rigoletto at the Baths of Caracalla. It was quite a spectacle - not least watching audience who were dressed in anything from shorts and t-shirts to full blown evening gowns. When the lights finally went down at 9:30 pm (for the 9pm start) there was this mad dash to an empty and hopefully better seat further forward. It was rather amusing, especially when the ushers tried to stop this last minute shift around.

It was a good couple of weeks in Italy and I think the girls have lots of memories that are still being digested. Every day they learned something new, including the morning papa' had to renew his identity card. The girls were fascinated that complete strangers would start a conversation straight away while waiting in line.

As we left Rome it was raining slightly. Tune in next week for news from Greece!

Lots of Love,
Emma, Gregorio, Isabella and Matilde. xxx

Thursday, July 22, 2010

Venetian Fireworks.





Our Italian journey began with a bang. We spent 5 magical days in one of my favourite places - Venice. The girls were very excited having heard so much about the city of water from me. And for me, it was like going home. Quite literally. I had found an apartment on the internet and chosen it for its location. When we arrived I was transported back 17 years to when I lived and studied in Venice - I had only chosen THE apartment I lived in. Only now, it was all renovated, had good windows, air conditioning, a dishwasher and a washing machine! What a coincidence.

The highlight of the week-end was by far the Festa del Redentore and I might add it is what shaped our itinerary this summer. The church of the Redentore on the Giudecca was built by Palladio to give thanks that the Venetians had been saved from the Plague. Every year - on the third Saturday of July a bridge of boats is traditionally built across the canal of the guidecca. Today the bridge is a more solid construction that is set up temporarily for the feast and connects the Zattere to the Giudecca. 

Gregorio choosing fish

La Salute illuminated by the fireworks.
On the Saturday night Venice lays on the most spectacular firework display in the Bacino di San Marco as part of the festivities. All terraces, restaurants and vantage points are booked up (despite the premium they charge for the evening). We decided to do it the Venetian way and hired a water taxi with our friends. Having feasted on a seafood extravaganza (courtesy of Gregorio and our early morning visit to the fish market at the Rialto) we boarded our boat. Our driver, a Redentore veteran, told us it was early at 9:30 pm to head to the bacino and so gave us a beautiful tour of Venice by night. There is something special about cruising down the Grand Canal in your own boat with hardly any other boats around. We were overwhelmed upon arrival in the bacino - it was filled with boats of all shapes and sizes. I had expected a lot but not the party atmosphere. We moved from the small family boat gatherings to the pirate ship. Then there were the disco ships (the girls' eyes were out on sticks at the flashing vibrating scene) to the fishing boats partying away and finally the seriously rich yachts moored up near the Giardini. I am not sure if it was the heat or tradition but there were also people taking a dip in the water. It doesn't look the cleanest stretch of water at the best of times...

It was still too early to hang around so we paid a visit to a gelateria - also a tactical pit stop (note we were drinking like camels given that it was reportedly 40 C that day and there was no loo on board). At 11:20 pm we were racing down the Grand Canal with all the last arrivals to the party, including a few gondolas.  A few moments later a couple of warning shots were fired and total silence and darkness descended on the city. Venice was ready for the show to begin. And what a show we were treated to. Forty minutes of pure magic.
There is something amazing about being in such an open space with fireworks raining down on you. The scene was Turneresque:  the foreground was filled with the silhouettes of people and boats and then bursts of light and colour beyond. There were loud cheers and applause as the effervescent sky faded to night, and the boats started to file home - priority given to the gondolas, followed by the smaller boats. The party boats and fishing vessels disappeared out into the lagoon, perhaps to party on, take a dip in the cleaner waters of the Lido or head off for tomorrow's catch. What a night. Truly memorable.

But this was not all that we did in Venice.The girls had a five star experience. It was a week-end dedicated to the arts of Venice. We visited the 17th century weaving looms of Bevilacqua and admired the beautiful velvets and damasks they continue to make for the Vatican, Royalty, White House, rich and famous. They were materials fit for princesses, we decided and there was a lady with a spinning wheel. From there we spent an afternoon decorating our own Venetian masks in a small workshop surrounded by magical creations by the master, while listening to Vivaldi. Outside the window gondolas glided by. The quality of our decorations was impressive, we learned how to use paint, brush on gold leaf and age the masks. 


On our final day we visited Murano, where the glass is blown. I contacted one of the less commercial factories and the current owner (grandson of the original) let us in. I had a moment of panic when I wondered whether bringing six young kids to a glass factory and private museum filled with priceless pieces was one of my wisest itinerary decisions. But all was well. The owner gave us a tour of the furnaces and explained the process and then the kids were allowed to blow their own piece of glass. What they will really remember about this visit, however, was trying on Cinderella's glass slipper in the museum. The owner told them they should come back in about two years and it will fit - needless to say my feet were too big!

We also enjoyed some fantastic food - more seafood than you can imagine. I am sorry to say that I have discovered that the Maryland soft shell crabs are not a patch on the baby Venetian "moeche". We managed to retreat to the island of Torcello for a very leisurely lunch on Sunday, while the kids played hide and seek in the rose garden - here  the air was a little fresher. We did so many more things but we have now moved onto Tuscany and our Venetian thoughts are now swaying in the breeze with the cypress trees. 

More soon!
Love,
Emma and her Italian family xxx

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

The fun continues in London


The English holiday is coming to an end, as has the amazing warm weather. It lasted till almost our last day. But it wouldn't be England without a little drizzle!

Isabella announced that the highlights of the holiday so far were seeing Bjorn, her baby cousin (who is rather adorable) and going to Borough market on the South Bank. We visited the market last Friday.We started the day with a delicious English breakfast at Roast and then wandered around all the market stalls and sampled their wonderful wares. Pure heaven for us foodies. Isabella listed all the foods she tried in her diary

"we went to a market that was selling international food. It was a beautiful day, and the food they sold was wonderful. I tasted: parmigiano, pate, chorizio, ice-cream, baclava, scallops, oysters, pasta, olives, raspberry chips and cheese."

She had great fun chatting up the stall holders and discovering they were Italian. The looked astounded as this blonde haired 8-year old asked them in perfect Italian if they could explain the difference between the two parmesans they were selling.

From there we had a delightful stroll along the South Bank past the Tate Modern, wobbly bridge and The Globe on a seriously hot day (we missed our air conditioned life in DC!)

Matilde told us that she was enjoying her time in  London. However, she is extremely disappointed, as she had really wanted to see the Queen. "why did she have to go to America, she has servants who can do all the work for her?!"

We have managed to catch up with lots of friends and family but sadly not enough time to see all. We have been to the Tower of London, we lost many hours there, but not our heads. The girls were fascinated. And Sheila, we went round on the moving walkway many times past the crown jewels so they could be sure they had the correct number of crowns listed. Matilde decided that the Queen must have a VERY large dining room table, otherwise how on earth could she fit all those golden plates and bowls on there. Let alone lift that big punch bowl that can hold 144 bottles of wine.

We spent a day at the British Museum, were we donned our activity back packs and headed for the Greek galleries. The girls had to dress up as Greeks and then we learnt about Greek games, clothing, gods and so much more. Isabella is a little concerned that those marbles we were looking at came from the Parthenon in Athens...

Tomorrow we head to Venice to join some British friends from DC and also some Roman friends. We have lots of fun activities planned, one of the highlight will be the fireworks in the Bacino di San Marco on Saturday night for the Festa del Redentore. Stay tuned for next week's installment!

Lots of love,
Emma, Gregorio, Isabella and Matilde. xxx

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

London calling

We have been having a thoroughly English time - filled with glasses of pimms, servings of summer pudding, roast lamb and mint sauce, lunch at an English country pub and strawberries with lashings of cream and a cup of tea.

Matilde has been writing her diary. Here is an excerpt (I have copied her writing exactly):

Sins we got here in London we went to the park and had a ice cream. The next day we had lamb for lunch on Tuseday we are going to go to bucingham palice and sea the Queens gards. To go there we are going on a dubool decabus. Tomoroo Daddy and Isabella with me and mummy we are going to go to the London I. ....our bedroom was butufull wen we got here...and we will have a nice day towmorow. And the adar days it was funy beacus in the nitte I got my pen and book  and rote in my book and we played a lot.

Thursday, July 1, 2010

All Stable, Europe Here We Come!

Tuesday's MRI revealed that the weed in Isabella's head is still stable. This is extremely good news, we depart for our European Grand Tour with peace of mind tonight. Gregorio also showed our book to the doctors and nurses and they were thrilled. We are hoping that we might still find a way to get it published and more widely distributed to other families going through something similar.

We are off to London first, followed by Italy, Greece and Mallorca. The girls will be blogging, so check back here on a regular basis to see what we have been up to. Matilde has been telling all she is going in a gondola in Venice. Isabella is looking forward to a cooking class in Tuscany and Gregorio has his list of London restaurants and pubs he wants to try out. Not to mention their new hiking boots that they will try out in the Italian Alps. Above all we are looking forward to slowing down and spending time with family and friends on what will be a truly memorable summer.

Needless to say the excitment has been building for weeks. We have been kept very busy saying goodbye to friends who are leaving DC, enjoying the end of year festivities at school and Isabella's birthday celebrations this week-end. A fine feast of bruschetta, spedini di gamberi, grissini con proscuitto, linguine (fresche) col pesto (fatto da loro), cupcakes and fruit dipped in chocolate sauce was enjoyed by the happy band of friends. They chopped, mixed, cooked and savoured every mouthful (during preparation and at the table afterwards!) Gregorio and I were exhausted and a little overwhelmed by the pile of things to wash up, not to mention the eggs that had been cracked everywhere and the flour and sugar that lined most surfaces and the floor. A very tasty birthday indeed.

Football fever has been very high at school in support of the World Cup. Isabella revealed her true identity when she broke down and cried that Italy was out. Matilde has gone off to school today proudly wearing an England shirt (thanks to our Spanish friends) to participate in the Year 1 end of year World Cup football match! Sadly none of our teams are still in so we will revert back to our favourite sport and will be cheering for the English lad down in SW19 - GO MURRAY, you can make it to the finals this year.

Have a good summer.
Lots of love,
Emma & Gregorio. xxx