The highlight of the week-end was by far the Festa del Redentore and I might add it is what shaped our itinerary this summer. The church of the Redentore on the Giudecca was built by Palladio to give thanks that the Venetians had been saved from the Plague. Every year - on the third Saturday of July a bridge of boats is traditionally built across the canal of the guidecca. Today the bridge is a more solid construction that is set up temporarily for the feast and connects the Zattere to the Giudecca.
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| Gregorio choosing fish |
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| La Salute illuminated by the fireworks. |
On the Saturday night Venice lays on the most spectacular firework display in the Bacino di San Marco as part of the festivities. All terraces, restaurants and vantage points are booked up (despite the premium they charge for the evening). We decided to do it the Venetian way and hired a water taxi with our friends. Having feasted on a seafood extravaganza (courtesy of Gregorio and our early morning visit to the fish market at the Rialto) we boarded our boat. Our driver, a Redentore veteran, told us it was early at 9:30 pm to head to the bacino and so gave us a beautiful tour of Venice by night. There is something special about cruising down the Grand Canal in your own boat with hardly any other boats around. We were overwhelmed upon arrival in the bacino - it was filled with boats of all shapes and sizes. I had expected a lot but not the party atmosphere. We moved from the small family boat gatherings to the pirate ship. Then there were the disco ships (the girls' eyes were out on sticks at the flashing vibrating scene) to the fishing boats partying away and finally the seriously rich yachts moored up near the Giardini. I am not sure if it was the heat or tradition but there were also people taking a dip in the water. It doesn't look the cleanest stretch of water at the best of times...
It was still too early to hang around so we paid a visit to a gelateria - also a tactical pit stop (note we were drinking like camels given that it was reportedly 40 C that day and there was no loo on board). At 11:20 pm we were racing down the Grand Canal with all the last arrivals to the party, including a few gondolas. A few moments later a couple of warning shots were fired and total silence and darkness descended on the city. Venice was ready for the show to begin. And what a show we were treated to. Forty minutes of pure magic.
There is something amazing about being in such an open space with fireworks raining down on you. The scene was Turneresque: the foreground was filled with the silhouettes of people and boats and then bursts of light and colour beyond. There were loud cheers and applause as the effervescent sky faded to night, and the boats started to file home - priority given to the gondolas, followed by the smaller boats. The party boats and fishing vessels disappeared out into the lagoon, perhaps to party on, take a dip in the cleaner waters of the Lido or head off for tomorrow's catch. What a night. Truly memorable.
But this was not all that we did in Venice.The girls had a five star experience. It was a week-end dedicated to the arts of Venice. We visited the 17th century weaving looms of Bevilacqua and admired the beautiful velvets and damasks they continue to make for the Vatican, Royalty, White House, rich and famous. They were materials fit for princesses, we decided and there was a lady with a spinning wheel. From there we spent an afternoon decorating our own Venetian masks in a small workshop surrounded by magical creations by the master, while listening to Vivaldi. Outside the window gondolas glided by. The quality of our decorations was impressive, we learned how to use paint, brush on gold leaf and age the masks.
We also enjoyed some fantastic food - more seafood than you can imagine. I am sorry to say that I have discovered that the Maryland soft shell crabs are not a patch on the baby Venetian "moeche". We managed to retreat to the island of Torcello for a very leisurely lunch on Sunday, while the kids played hide and seek in the rose garden - here the air was a little fresher. We did so many more things but we have now moved onto Tuscany and our Venetian thoughts are now swaying in the breeze with the cypress trees.
It was still too early to hang around so we paid a visit to a gelateria - also a tactical pit stop (note we were drinking like camels given that it was reportedly 40 C that day and there was no loo on board). At 11:20 pm we were racing down the Grand Canal with all the last arrivals to the party, including a few gondolas. A few moments later a couple of warning shots were fired and total silence and darkness descended on the city. Venice was ready for the show to begin. And what a show we were treated to. Forty minutes of pure magic.There is something amazing about being in such an open space with fireworks raining down on you. The scene was Turneresque: the foreground was filled with the silhouettes of people and boats and then bursts of light and colour beyond. There were loud cheers and applause as the effervescent sky faded to night, and the boats started to file home - priority given to the gondolas, followed by the smaller boats. The party boats and fishing vessels disappeared out into the lagoon, perhaps to party on, take a dip in the cleaner waters of the Lido or head off for tomorrow's catch. What a night. Truly memorable.
But this was not all that we did in Venice.The girls had a five star experience. It was a week-end dedicated to the arts of Venice. We visited the 17th century weaving looms of Bevilacqua and admired the beautiful velvets and damasks they continue to make for the Vatican, Royalty, White House, rich and famous. They were materials fit for princesses, we decided and there was a lady with a spinning wheel. From there we spent an afternoon decorating our own Venetian masks in a small workshop surrounded by magical creations by the master, while listening to Vivaldi. Outside the window gondolas glided by. The quality of our decorations was impressive, we learned how to use paint, brush on gold leaf and age the masks.
On our final day we visited Murano, where the glass is blown. I contacted one of the less commercial factories and the current owner (grandson of the original) let us in. I had a moment of panic when I wondered whether bringing six young kids to a glass factory and private museum filled with priceless pieces was one of my wisest itinerary decisions. But all was well. The owner gave us a tour of the furnaces and explained the process and then the kids were allowed to blow their own piece of glass. What they will really remember about this visit, however, was trying on Cinderella's glass slipper in the museum. The owner told them they should come back in about two years and it will fit - needless to say my feet were too big!
We also enjoyed some fantastic food - more seafood than you can imagine. I am sorry to say that I have discovered that the Maryland soft shell crabs are not a patch on the baby Venetian "moeche". We managed to retreat to the island of Torcello for a very leisurely lunch on Sunday, while the kids played hide and seek in the rose garden - here the air was a little fresher. We did so many more things but we have now moved onto Tuscany and our Venetian thoughts are now swaying in the breeze with the cypress trees. More soon!
Love,
Emma and her Italian family xxx
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